sectoral studies series THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL ANIZATION economy environment employment sectoral studies series THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries Gary Gereffi Department of Sociology, Duke University Durham, USA and Olga Memedovic UNIDO, Strategic Research and Economics Branch UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL ANIZATION Vienna, 2003 This paper has not been formally edited. The views expressed therein, the designations employed as well as the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expressions of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial anization concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Designations such as “industrialized”, “developed” and “developing” countries are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgement about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names mercial products does not imply endorsement by UNIDO. Material in this paper may be freely quoted but acknowledgement is requested, together with a copy of the publication containing the quotation or reprint. ii Acknowledgement This publication has been prepared by Gary Gereffi, Department of Sociology, Duke University, and Olga Memedovic, UNIDO staff member from the Strategic Research and Economics Branch. Frédéric Richard, Director of the Strategic Research and Economics Branch, provided overall guidance. UNIDO intern Arjan Stavast provided assistance. The authors are grateful to Mr. John-Peter Moll, UNIDO expert on textile and clothing, for providing ments during the preparation of this paper. Penelope Plowden and ina Wilde were