Router Table Tips and Techniques
Make joints and edges using a router table.
Double the usefulness of your router with a router table. Smooth edges, cut long moldings and mold small projects easier and more safely by using the table. We show you how.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine: March 2002
Tip 1: Make your own moldings
Tip 2: Easy end-grain routing
Tip 3: Plane perfectly straight edges on boards or plywood
Tip 4: Freehand routing with a starting pivot
Tip 1: Make your own moldings
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Photo 1: Shape board edges
Clamp feather boards to the fence and tabletop so they apply moderate pressure to the board. Feed the board through the router at a steady rate. Hook the notch on the push stick over the end of the board and use the stick to push the board past the bit at the end of the cut.
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Finished molding and router bit
A good set-up and steady push result in a smooth, burn-free molding.
Router tables are great for cutting your own moldings. Using a router table is easier and faster than using a router alone; you don’t have to clamp the board. And narrow boards that are hard to shape with a router are a cinch on a router table. Use feather boards and a push stick to protect your fingers (Photo 1).
Start by tightening the bit into the router, mounting the router in the base and adjusting the height of the bit. Don’t worry about getting the fence square to the table; it doesn’t matter for this type of cut. If your bit has a bearing guide, lay a straightedge against the fence and adjust it until there’s a paper-thin space between the outer edge of the bearing and the straightedge. Clamp feather boards to the table and the fence (Photo 1) to hold the work against the bit. This allows you to concentrate on pushing the board.
To avoid burn marks from the router bit, feed the board at a steady rate without stopping. The rate of feed depends on the bit and type of wood. With experience, you’ll learn to judge the best
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