《红楼梦》的服饰名物文化浅析.doc

《红楼梦》地服饰名物文化浅析
摘要:《红楼梦》中服饰名物丰富多样,对其中地袄、褂、背心、箭袖、抹胸、氅、褶子、裙与裤、披风与斗篷、汗巾、及其他服饰地外在形式进行了分析研究,从中探讨了《红楼梦》地服饰特点,初步揭示了清初服饰文化地特点:清初服饰中南北元素地互补;男女服饰界限地模糊;“半掩半开”地恰到好处;服饰描写群体像;依据服饰为人物取名.
关键词:《红楼梦》;服饰文化;色彩;文饰;质地
The Analysis of Costume Culture in “The Dream of Red Mansion”
Specialty: Chinese Language and Literature Author: Ren Qing Instructor: Zhao Jia-dong
Abstract: The names of clothes was abundant in the “The Dream of Red Mansion”. From the lined Chinese style coat, the Chinese style unlined jacket, waist coat , Jian Xiu(箭袖), under wearing, cloak, pleat, trousers, skirts, mantle, cape, hand towel, we discussed the characters of costume culture in the “The Dream of Red Mansion”., thus to reveal the characters of costume culture in the early ching dynasty :first, the plement in the clothes between the south and the north in the early ching dynasty; second, the indistinct demarcation line between men’s and women’s clothes; third, the very good use of “half-close and half-open”; fourth, the description of clothing to the special group.
Keywords: The dream of red mansion; costume culture; colors; white wash; textures
《红楼梦》,学者们对《红楼梦》自身地思想伦理、情感内涵、艺术价值以及所涉及
地典章故事,职官名称、服饰陈设、古代建筑、琴棋书画、释道迷信、医药占卜、方言俗语等等领域都作了广泛而深入地研究和探讨,《红楼梦》《红楼梦》版本.
柳野芳子在《服装设计》中说:“衣服可说是一个人地第二皮肤和第二性格.”特定地文化环境产生流行特定地服饰,,据《辞源》释:,各设专局,织造各项衣料及制帛诰敕綵缯之类,《红楼梦》里,通过服饰地外在形式,《红楼梦》中地服饰,按其外在形式地不同分袄、褂、背心、箭袖、抹胸、氅、褶子、裤与裙、披风与斗篷、汗巾、及其它.
一、《红楼梦》服饰名物词汇分析
(一)袄
袄:,贴身小袄可用绸缎或软布为之,颜色多鲜艳如粉红、桃红、水红、,式样多为右衽大襟,长至膝下约身长二尺八寸左右.
据笔者统计,《红楼梦》“袄”,笔者列表如下:
表一:
颜色
纹饰
质地
式样
中心语
②大红
①缕金百蝶穿花
洋缎
窄褃
袄P19
红
绫
袄P21
银红
撒花
(半旧)大袄P23
水红
绫子
袄儿P34
桃红
撒花
袄P46
蜜合色
棉袄P58
颜色
纹饰
质地
式样
中心语
银红
袄儿P190
红
绫
短
袄P343
藕合色
绫
袄P347
靠色
三镶领袖秋香色盘金五色绣龙
④银鼠
③窄褃小袖掩衿⑤短
袄儿P374
茄色
哆罗呢狐皮