融会中西·亦画亦绣--“正则绣”溯源.pdf

南京艺术学院
硕士学位论文
融会中西·亦画亦绣--“正则绣”溯源
姓名:蒋洁燕
申请学位级别:硕士
专业:设计艺术学
指导教师:龚建培
2011
摘要
“正则绣”首创于上世纪 20 年代初,它是在西方文化影响下,由著名美术教育家吕凤子先生在
江苏丹阳创办的私立正则女校内发起,与他的学生杨守玉一道,通过吸收西洋绘画的色彩原理,运
用色线的层层相叠,以长短不一的线条、灵活多变的“乱针”绣法,突破传统刺绣的“密集其针、
排比其线”,创造出的一种刺绣新品。
本课题通过梳理“正则绣”创立的时代背景、发展过程,探讨“正则绣”是如何从帮助女性自
立走向对传统刺绣的充实与升华;通过与同样吸收西洋绘画原理的“仿真绣”进行比对研究,探讨
“正则绣”独特的艺术特点与审美价值;通过走访“正则绣”的传人,了解“正则绣”的发展现状,
从发展模式、材料应用等方面,为当代“正则绣”的发展与推广提出自己的建议。
关键词:正则绣;西风东渐;艺术特点;审美价值;传承发展
I
Abstract
“ ZhengZe embroidery” first in the last century, 20 years early, in the
influence of western culture, by the renowned art educator Mr. Lv Fengzi in Danyang,
Jiangsu, founded by private regular female school sponsored, and his students
method was developed, and through absorption of Western painting color principle,
to the line of varying lengths and flexibility of the “chaotic” embroidery,
use of stacked layers of color line, breaking the traditional embroidery of the
“crowded its needle, parallelism its”, to create a new embroidery .
The project bing “ZhengZe embroidery” created the background,
development process of “ZhengZe embroidery”is how to help women self-reliance
to the traditional embroidery to enrich and sublimation; with the same period
of the same absorption of Western painting, the principle of “Emulational
Embroidery” pare study “ ZhengZe embroidery” unique artistic features
and aesthetic value; through visits “ZhengZe embroidery” the essor to
understand the “ZhengZe embroidery” the development status, from the
development model, material application, etc., for the contemporary “ ZhengZe
embroidery”The development and promotion of my own proposals.


Key Words: ZhengZe embroidery; the west munication to the China;
Arts Features;Aesthetic Value;inheritance development
II
绪论
绪论
第一节“什么是正则绣”——课题研究范围与对象
一、选题背景
作为纤维艺术与纺织品设计专业的研究生,在“纤维艺术与纺织品设计理
论与历史研究”、“纤维艺术与纺织品设计专题研究”等课程中,对江南近代
刺绣的发展颇感兴趣。一种如西方油画般富有明暗、立体变化,看上去栩栩如
生的刺绣作品引起了笔者的关注。在有幸参与导师龚建培教授《近代江南染织图 1 2